This summer I decided to pack up my red spotted handkerchief and head to the Balkans for a solo adventure. My parents were concerned for my safety and I was unsure if my plan was overly ambitious or just stupid. However, after a great deal of research and reassurance I felt relatively confident that a re-run of the film ‘Taken’ was unlikely and set off for my three hour flight to the Bulgarian city of Plovdiv.
It’s truly surprising how far away from what you know three hours on a plane can take you. Considering that Bulgaria is an EU country I was surprised at the differences: stray animals everywhere, very little semblance of organisation on the roads and a fascinating mix of modernity and medieval. This contrast continued throughout much of the Balkans, whilst coaches zoomed up the mountainous roads, oxen pulled hay carts next to them.
Photo Credit – Beachionary.com
Macedonia quickly became one of my favourites. In Skopje the government has spent millions giving the city a more “monumental” feel, with vast statues and fountains all over the place. Meanwhile Ohrid offers some of the most stunning views and architecture, good weather, a beautiful lake and a good night out (however buy your pre-drinks before 9pm as any later and the sale of alcohol is illegal or black market.) Here I met some amazing friends and it was this lakeside town that made me fall in love with the country.
Onwards and upwards to Kosovo where I was immediately told to “Watch out, because people will traffic you.” Despite this threatening arrival it’s worth a look around, with such a violent recent history it’s surprising to see a statue of Bill Clinton on one of the main boulevards and I even stumbled across a Tony Blair street.
Photo Credit – my-world-travel-guides.com
Bosnia-Herzegovina offered more memories starting with a 22 hour bus ride. I visited the spot where Franz Ferdinand was shot, and I went waterfall climbing. There was however a much more sombre undertone in Bosnia; unlike the other countries I visited the violence suffered by Bosnia during the war is clear to see, especially in Mostar. Bullet holes riddle buildings in the city centre and tensions are still high between the Croatians and the Bosnians. The average Bosnian waiter earns just €7 a day and swathes of newly built houses lie empty, unsurprising in a country with a 60% youth unemployment rate (comparatively ours is 21%).
Montenegro and Croatia were most homely in feel and it was here that I felt least like a traveller and most like a tourist (although perhaps this is my fault for visiting small towns and spending my days on the beach.) The ancient appeal of towns such as Kotor, Dubrovnik and Zadar is understandable, and unlike other places I visited they crawled with cruise ship tourists even as the season drew to a close in September. By the last day spent in Zadar I was poor, exhausted and desperate for some TLC.
Photo Credit – crystal-clear.com
From the mountains of Bulgaria, to the Macedonian lakes and the beaches of Croatia, my trip was amazing. Sometimes scary and sometimes miserable but mostly a series of eye opening experiences, fun and friends that made me crave another adventure as soon as I got home. I lost my phone, most of my overdraft and a good deal of my naivety, but travelling alone was the best thing I’ve ever done. I understand aspects of Europe that I’d never even considered before but most tellingly I learnt the importance of a hot meal and a bath when I finally got home.
Genevieve Kotarska
exeposedev 